Posted Jul 22, 2022, 5:00 PMUpdated on Jul 22, 2022 at 5:31 PM
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It’s a match that takes place on the ground of a fine and popular pastry at the same time. He opposes Bordeaux Baillardran to La Toque Cuivrée and his object is the canelé. These two old houses, well known to the locals, produce this cake born in the port of the city in the 16th century. The common people made it with the remains of flour that had fallen from the sacks that were loaded onto the boats. The recipe was then improved and refined with the addition of ingredients such as vanilla and rum.
It would be sold in the tens of millions today, from train stations or airports to coffee counters, but above all all over the world. The product is in the process of globalization like others before it, a success that still stirs up competition between its historical manufacturers. Baillardran was a forerunner from the end of the 1980s in its wide distribution as an emblem of local gastronomy. Using luxury codes for its packaging and shops. Its competitor, the Toque cuivrée, is positioned on the popular side of the product and offers lower prices.
Mono-product vogue
The fight between them is such that their shops almost touch each other in downtown Bordeaux. But it’s not just the canelé in France and the fashion in pastries is to make a mono-product. Among the greatest successes of this trend we can cite Fred’s wonders. But he also has Popelini with his laboratory from which 8,000 cabbage leaves per day or La Meringaie, specialist in Pavlova, which are on the rise.
La Story is a podcast from Les Echos presented by Pierrick Fay. This episode was recorded in July 2022. Editor-in-chief: Clémence Lemaistre. Guests: Marion Kindermans (journalist in the SME department of “Echos”) and Franck Niedercorn (correspondent of “Echos” in Gironde). Directed by: Willy Ganne. Production and publishing manager: Michèle Warnet. Music: Théo Boulenger. Graphic identity: Upian. Photo: Shutterstock. Sounds: M6, Chaussée aux Moines, Ina, USA21.tv, Fernandel “It’s cake”, Les Toulousains “Les Bordelais! “, France Bleu, Grands Moulins de Paris, “Santa Claus is garbage” (1982), Camille Saint-Saëns “The Carnival of the Animals”, Corinne Albaut “We are hungry”, The hyenes “We are hungry”.
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